Resisting the temptation to buy half hardy bedding plants is difficult but unless you can protect them from possible frost then wait until the danger of frost has gone.
As the old English saying goes, ‘Ne’er cast a clout till May be out’, advises that you shouldn’t discard your warm coat until the end of May as there is still a chance you could be caught out by a cold spell. There is no doubt that our climate is changing but the chance of late frosts is still possible. Indeed last year we had a hail-storm in June. There are many garden centres and nurseries selling plants for summer containers and annually planted borders but many are half hardy. This means that they will not tolerate night-time temperatures below -5C ( 34-41F), and require the protection of a frost free place, ideally a greenhouse or conservatory that will provide good light and frost protection. Unless you have these facilities or are prepared to bring them inside at night, then it is probably better to wait until next month before you buy your summer bedding plants.
The term ‘early or spring flowering shrubs’ is applied to those that flower from now until early June, for example, philadelphus, deutzia, forsythia, wigelia, viburnum and syringa (lilac). Most of these flower on woody stems that were produced last year or the year before. Many are quite vigorous and can also become quite congested so the process is called renewal pruning which encourages the shrub to produce new growth that will flower next year and to remove some of the older growth which maintains a healthy open habit, this is particularly important if space is limited.
A week or so after the last flower fades it is a good idea to get on with the pruning as this will give the shrub chance to grow new shoots through the summer months which will flower next year. Take your time, and look over the whole shrub, ask yourself, does it look balanced or is it straying into other plants? As with all pruning, if there are any dead, damaged or diseased stems then these should be cut back to where there is healthy growth, in some instances this may mean right back to the main stem. Now look at each branch and note where there are faded flowers and new stems are growing, cut back all those shoots that have had flowers on back to where they meet the woody stem. Once you have completed this then step back and look at the whole shrub, is it looking congested and woody? Then it is time to remove some of the older or wayward branches. You may need loppers rather than secatures as the stems may be quite woody and thick. If you are unsure about which to remove, gently bend the branch away from the shrub and see if it looks right and doesn’t leave a big space. If you are happy then cut it out to just above ground level. I usually aim to remove about one third of the older branches which helps maintain a balanced plant and encourages new growth.
I am always excited when I start planting out in the vegetable garden as it means it won’t be long before we are enjoying fresh produce. Bear in mind that what you plant will need to cope with the cold and maybe a frost, so don’t be tempted to plant your outdoor tomatoes, courgettes or pumpkins. Traditionally potatoes are planted this month, although a little confusing the term early, second early and lates applied to potatoes generally refers to the time they take to mature and the ultimate size. Earlies are ready to harvest in 10 to 12 weeks from planting, second earlies 13 to 15 weeks from planting and lates, 15 to 22 weeks from planting. Earlies are harvested as small potatoes often referred to as ‘new potatoes’ whilst lates are larger potatoes and are good for storing through autumn ad winter. Broad beans are hardy and can be planted out if not already done. Onion sets can be planted out this month and many of the root vegetables (beetroot, carrot and turnips). I start many of my vegetables (peas, and brassicas) in modules and either pot them on to grow stronger plants or plant out covering with garden fleece for a couple of weeks to give them a good start.
I can’t believe how quickly the lawn grows, the few warm days we had in early March set mine into growth and by the middle of the month I was giving it a first cut. Those who suffer from moss will no doubt be scratching their heads thinking what to do? Moss will grow if the soil is wet, or if the lawn is shaded by trees and occasionally if the soil is quite acid so it is a good idea to assess which applies to your situation. Rotary and mulching mowers are great but do leave grass clippings which build up in the lawn surface and encourage moss. Before reaching for the moss killer you should hire a scarifier and go over the lawn two or three times to remove as much moss and dead grass as you can. It may look a little bald but it will recover if you follow up with a spring fertiliser. Any bald patches can be over-seeded with a 50/50 mix of seed and potting compost.
happy gardening,
Martin
Next month (prepare for indoor tomatoes, clear spring bedding plants, tie in climbers.).
