Chair of the Farm Retail Association Emma Mosey spoke at the TUKFS (Transforming UK Food Systems) Conference on the realities of modern farming.
Emma met her husband Ben who comes from a farming background at university and through visiting Ben’s family farm, Emma realised the pressures of modern farming. This new understanding, paired with Ben’s deep-rooted knowledge of farming practices, ignited a passion with them to connect people with real food. They now run award-winning Yolk Farm and Minskip Farm Shop near Boroughbridge near York.
In 2017 after travelling the world together as an exploration geologist and a writer they bought a small farm shop with 6,000 hens in North Yorkshire. They started small, like many farms, simply selling eggs to supermarkets. But they soon realised that this model wasn’t sustainable. The pressure to keep prices low was immense, and they were essentially selling produce below cost. They knew they needed to diversify.
So they embarked on a journey of transformation. In 2020 they opened a restaurant, a place where people could truly experience the farm-to-fork philosophy. They added a dog walking field, a kids’ play barn, and some commercial lets. And in 2025, they are now thrilled to be welcoming a new children’s nursery to the farm. This diversification has not only improved their financial resilience but also created a thriving hub for the local community, a place where people can come to relax, learn, and connect with nature.
Emma comments on the challenges of modern farming, “We live in a world where 85% of our shopping is done in supermarkets. Our urban population has exploded – 85% of people now live in cities– while our rural population has shrunk dramatically. This disconnect has profound implications for how we view farming.
“Farming is incredibly challenging. Supplying supermarkets often means low prices, squeezing margins. We face the constant pressures of inflation, unpredictable weather, and incredibly low returns – the average farm operates on a profit margin of just 0.5%. We have diversified away from traditional farming for this reason. After the Budget of October 2024, farming is about to get a lot harder too, with the cost increases on businesses and the IHT reforms.
“So, if I’m not a “real” farmer, what am I? A food retailer? Perhaps. But that’s too simplistic.
“The reality is, consumer behaviour is changing. People want more than just food; they want experiences. They want to know where their food comes from, understand the story behind it. Farm shops and farmers’ markets are becoming destinations, places to connect with friends and family, enjoy a leisurely afternoon.
“We spend more on leisure and culture than we do on food. As a population, we spend 14% of our income on leisure, 9% on eating in restaurants and just 11% on food.
“In order to truly transform our food system, we need to understand what motivates people. We need to tap into their desire for connection, for experiences, for a deeper understanding of the food they consume.
“Sixty percent of our diets are ultra-processed. This is a national health crisis. We need to make healthy choices accessible and appealing.
“We, as an industry, need to shift our focus. TUKFS should be about more than just agricultural policy. It needs to be about food culture, about reconnecting people with the land, about making healthy, sustainable choices the easy choices.
“In today’s rapidly evolving food landscape, farmers must embrace entrepreneurial thinking. Simply producing food is no longer enough. We need to understand what consumers truly value – transparency, sustainability, connection. This means diversifying our offerings, exploring new markets, and creating unique experiences that resonate with the public. We need to become storytellers, sharing the passion and dedication that goes into producing our food. By embracing innovation and adapting to the changing needs of our customers, farmers can not only ensure their own success but also contribute to a more sustainable and resilient food system.
“What is food? It’s more than just nutrition. It’s culture, it’s community, it’s a source of joy. Let’s work together to build a food system that reflects that.”
