What a dull and dreary winter, I can count on one hand the number of sunny days we have had, although I guess we should have expected it. It is so important to keep your spirits up despite the weather and spend a little time in the fresh air, even if thats just going for a short walk.
Although I manage to get out in the garden most days I am desperate to feel the sun on my cheeks again, I love it in the garden on a sunny spring day, it really lifts my mood. I am told I can be a little grumpy at times, I blame that on the weather.
Our garden is a constantly changing scene as despite all the published advice some plants just don’t like where you put them. Don’t be afraid to move plants if they don’t look right or aren’t performing in the space you have chosen. Although ideally plants prefer to be moved when they are dormant, I have moved them as late as early June. Taking care when lifting, make sure you keep as much soil on the roots as possible, and have the intended planting hole already prepared means that when you lift them they hardly notice what you are doing. I tend to lift plants using a garden fork as it doesn’t damage as many roots as a spade. It takes a little more time but it is worth it. The essential thing when moving plants that are in growth is to make sure they are regularly watered, especially in warm dry weather. For the first couple of months I treat them as if they were in a container, watering every few days and giving the occasional liquid feed.
We are in the midst of the welcome displays provided by spring bulbs. Snowdrops are followed by crocus and narcissus (daffodils), who will soon be followed by bluebells and tulips. It’s strange to think that many of these will be dormant throughout summer quietly sleeping underground until next year, so to give them the best chance of survival we should help them prepare for their hibernation. Nipping of all the faded flowers will encourage them to build up food reserves in their bulbs and corms, rather than spending all their energy on producing seed. If you intend to let some seed around then leave a few flowers to complete their cycle. Once they have finished flowering I give them a light dressing of general fertiliser, this will help them recover and build up a strong healthy food store for next year. If you have grown or purchased bulbs in pots these can be planted out in the garden, again making sure you have removed all the faded flowers and give them a feed when you plant them. Some subjects, such as tulips are less reliable but narcissus, snowdrops and crocuses seem to settle in well, increasing and providing displays for years to come.
Fashion is constantly changing as new generations create a style and character that they connect with and gardening is no exception. From the extremely controlled, vibrant colour of the Victorian formal displays we are now attracted to a more naturalistic approach to planting. Brightly coloured ‘Bedding’ plants whilst still popular for containers are being replaced by softer more textural combinations of plants. In addition the challenge and cost of replanting containers twice each year, means that many are looking for a longer term solution. Using perennials and woody plants in containers can give longer displays and carefully looked after can keep on giving for a number of years. The bonus is that when they have outgrown their pot they can be planted out in the garden or given away to friends. The key issues are to make sure the pot size is increased as the plant grows, this usually means repotting every year, adding new compost and a slow release fertiliser. It also gives you an excuse to buy another plant to put in the pot you have emptied, always a welcome opportunity, justified by an increase in your container display.
So whether it is woody herbs such as bay trees, rosemary or lavender, or grasses and herbaceous perennials, there is no question a more permanent container planting will add character to your garden style.
As the growth of herbaceous perennials begin to emerge there is a job that needs to be tackled early. I am as guilty as everyone else in that I sometimes delay putting in plant supports, resulting an a straggly misshapen plant that never quite meets expectations. Installing plant supports soon after plants emerge means that you will encourage all that growth to keep in shape and in turn reduce the damage caused by wind and rain. There are many types of support available, from the formal wire frames to those made from natural materials such as willow and hazel, choose a style that suits your garden, although ideally as the plant reaches maturity the support should be invisible. To achieve this choose a support that is about half to two thirds the eventual height and spread of the plant.
Happy Gardening,
Martin
Next Month, (pruning spring flowering shrubs, what to plant in the vegetable garden and it’s lawn time).
